Continental Sewing Center Needle Guide - Sizes, types and users guide
When choosing a sewing machine needle, look for the type of needle you need first. For example, what type of fabric are you sewing on? If it's leather, choose a leather needle. Then, choose the size. If you look for the sizing first, you will go crazy for the combinations :)
Sewing Machine Needle Size Guide
60/8 - Very fine fabric weight - Used for fine silk, chiffon, organza, voile or fine lace
65/9
70/10
75/11 - Light fabric weight - Used for cotton, voile, silk, synthetics, spandex and lycra
80/12
90/14 - Medium fabric weight - Used for quilting fabrics, cotton, velvet, fine corduroy, linen, muslin, jersey, tricot, knits, light wool, sweatshirt, knit or fleece
100/16 - Heavy fabric weight - Used for denim, corduroy, canvas, duck, suiting or leather
110/18 - Very heavy fabric weight - Used for heavy denim, heavy canvas, upholstery fabric or faux fur
120/20 - Very, very heavy fabric weight - Used for extra heavy fabrics
When choosing a sewing machine needle, look for the type of needle you need first. For example, what type of fabric are you sewing on? If it's leather, choose a leather needle. Then, choose the size. If you look for the sizing first, you will go crazy for the combinations :)
Needle Types and Uses
Universal - All purpose needle with a slightly rounded tip - Used for most woven fabrics and stable knits, especially cotton, poly/cotton and silks.
Ball Point - Similar to a universal needle, but has a more rounded tip designed to slip between the fibers without cutting them - Used for tightly woven and knit fabrics including polyester and poly/cotton.
Jersey - Designed for knit fabrics because the rounded point will not cut the fibers and cause laddering - Used for knit fabrics.
Stretch - Designed for two way stretch fabrics like dance or swimwear fabrics, without skipping. Also good for sewing elastics - Used for two way stretch, dance and swimwear lycra and elastic.
Leather - Sharp cutting point to pierce through leather and vinyl - Used for leather and thick vinyl (may tear thin vinyl)
Quilting - Strengthened needles for piecing through multiple layers of fabric and batting - Used for quilting and bag making where you need to sew through numerous layers.
Topstitch - Extra large eye so you can thread thick cottons. Also, sharp point to sew through several layers - Used for topstitching and decorative stitching.
Sharps/Microtex - Strengthened needles are finer and sharper than universal needles - Used for thin vinyl, appliqué, silks and densely woven fabrics.
12 Types of Sewing Machine Needles
These types of needles will be used most often. They can sew all kinds of fabrics, including woven and stable (not too stretchy) knits, and are suitable for both natural and synthetic fabrics. Use them to sew cotton, voile, linen, light wool. rayon and poplin. Buy a couple of packets in assorted sewing machine needle sizes from 10/70 to 14/90, and you will have many fabrics covered. Universal needles have slightly rounded tip.
Ballpoint needles can be used for tightly woven fabrics and knit fabrics with lower stretch fabric. They can be used for cotton knits, polyester, and polyester cotton. As the name suggests their tip is rounded, enabling it to slip through fibers without cutting through them. This is especially important for stretch fabrics where holes can easily form.
3. Jersey Needles
These are specifically for knit fabrics with medium stretch fabric. The rounded tip is designed to slip between fibers and not cause laddering or holes.
These types of needles are designed for fabrics with the maximum amount of stretch, such as dance lycra, spandex and swimwear fabric. I often use these for sewing elastics and rib knits as well. They will reduce puckering and skipped stitches in stretch seams.
Leather needles are a must for sewing leather, synthetic suede, up leather or vinyl. They have a sharp point that pierces through the leather and a strengthened shaft. Make sure you lengthen your stitches in conjunction with using the leather needle, so you don't cause perforation.
Quilting Needles are strengthened to pierce through numerous layers of fabric and batting. This prevents the needles from breaking or bending. They are also great to use in bag making where you will sew through thicker interfacing and layers.
Top stitching needles have large eyes for thick thread and are strengthened. Since topstitching is done on the edge, there will be several layers to sew through.
Sharps are strengthened and finer and sharper than universal needles. They are used when sewing thin vinyl, applique, silks, and tightly woven fabrics.
These, of course, are for sewing denim which is thick and dense. They often come in thicker sewing machine needle sizes and are strong enough to sew yourself a pair of jeans or overalls. They have a very sharp point for piercing thick fabric.
Double needles have 2 needles next to each other that are joined at the top. They are for sewing hems in stretch garments.
These sewing machine needles are designed for computerized embroidery machines where you require dense stitching. They prevent splitting or shredding of the machine embroidery thread and give nice even stitches.
Metallic threads are often thicker and prone to shredding. Using a specialized metallic needle with an extra large eye will prevent thread from splitting as it is able to run through smoothly.
How Long Do Sewing Needles Last?
Most sewing needle manufacturers will say 6-8 hours. This might seem like a short life span but needles are cheap, and changing them frequently will result in better sewing. If it's a very important item, change your needle before you start. Better safe then sorry.
If you accidentally hit a pin when sewing, then you should change the needle immediately, as you will have damaged the tip.
How To Insert A Sewing Machine Needle
First, the power to your machine should be off. Next, remove the old needle if there is one. You will see a screw that needs loosening, usually at the top right. Pull the old needle down.
If you look at the top of your new household sewing machine needle you will see that one side is flat and the other is rounded.
Insert the new needle with the correct sewing machine needle sizes and type. The flat side always faces the BACK of the machine (This may be different for older machines like Singer 221 featherweights). The rounded side will face you. Tighten the screw, and you are ready to sew. | 